https://www.ft.com/content/8d6d76b0-2add-11de-8415-00144feabdc0 by: Ramachandra Guha I first visited Lahore in 1995, illegally. I was attending a conference in Islamabad, and had a visa for that city alone. But I was determined to get to Lahore. I had grown up in a town in north India inundated with refugees from Pakistan’s Punjab. […]